No, en tie uskooks tähän juttuun vai ei, mutta pitkä juttu lyhyesti:
uudet öljyt, joihin on sekoitettu sinkki- dithiofosfattia kitkan pienentämiseksi, tappavat vanhanmalliset moottorit, sillä nämä yhdisteet eivät kestä esim. valuraudan lämpöpisteitä  ja säilytä samalla voiteluominaisuuksiaan.  Eli näillä öljyillä moottori kestää alle 1000 kilometriä.
No, en ole ensimmäisenä vapaaehtoisena koekaniina kumoamassa tätä väitettä.
Juttu on käsittämättömän pitkä, joten katkaisin sen kahtia ja pistän vain tähän jälkimmäisen osan, jossa kerrotaan, miten välttää ongelmat uusöljyjen kanssa. Sori, että on ulkomaankielellä, on niin pitkä teksti että en joutanu kääntämän.

Oil is Killing our cars Part II

Last month's report on this subject is turning out to be just the tip of the
iceberg! Many publications have had this subject of
zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate (ZDDP) covered in varying depths over the last
few months. Some publications have even had conflicting stories when you
compare one month's article with their next month's article! They are all
ending up supporting our report.

I have had the good fortune to have the ear of quite a few leaders in the
industry including some wonderful input from Castrol. We have been very
reluctant to "dump" Castrol, as it has been such a great supporter of our
cars and industry over the years. Castrol hasn't really abandoned our cars,
just shifted to a more mass marketing mode. Many Castrol products are not
appropriate for our cars today, some still are.

Now for the latest report:

#1 Castrol GTX 20W-50 is still good for our cars after break-in! 10W-40,
10W-30 and other grades are NOT good. Absolute NOT GOOD for any oil (Any
Brand) that is marked "Energy Conserving" in the API "Donut" on the bottle,
these oils are so low with ZDDP or other additives that they will destroy
our cams. Virtually all "Diesel" rated oils are acceptable.

#2 Castrol HD 30 is a very good oil for break-in of new motors. This oil has
one of the largest concentrations of ZDDP and Moly to conserve our cams and
tappets.

#3 Only an unusual Castrol Syntec 20W-50 approaches the levels of protection
we need when we look to the better synthetic lubricants. We are attempting
to get this oil but will be using Redline 10W-40 or 10W-30 as these are
lighter weights for better performance, flow volume, less drag and has the
additive package we need.

#4 The trend today is to lighter weight oils to decrease drag, which
increases mileage. Most of these seem to be the "Energy Conservation" oils
that we cannot use.

#5 Redline oil and others are suggesting a 3,000-mile break-in for new
engines! Proper seating of rings, with today's lubricants is taking that
long to properly seal. Shifting to synthetics before that time will just
burn a lot of oil and not run as well as hoped.

#6 The "Energy Conservation" trend was first lead by automakers to increase
mileage numbers and secondly because the ZDDP and other chemicals degrade
the catalytic converter after extended miles, increasing pollution. We don't
have catalytic converters and the mileage gains are not that significant for
most of us.

For you science buffs: ZDDP is a single polar molecule that is attracted to
Iron based metals. The one polar end tends to "Stand" the molecule up on the
metal surface that it is bonded to by heat and friction. This forms a
sacrificial layer to protect the base metal of the cam and tappet from
contacting each other. Only at very high pressures on a flat tappet cam is
this necessary because the oil is squeezed/wiped from the surface. This high
pressure is also present on the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) in diesel engines,
therefore the need for ZDDP in diesel engines.

Second part of the equation is Molybdenum disulfide (Moly). The moly bonds
to the zinc adding an additional, very slippery, sacrificial layer to the
metal. I found out that too much of the moly will create problems; lack of
this material reduces the effectiveness of the ZDDP. The percentage, by
weight is from .01 to 02%, not much, but necessary.

Latest conclusions: Running our older, broken in engines on Castrol 20W-50
GTX is ok. Break in a new engine for 3,000 miles on HD 30 Castrol.

New engines (after break-in) and fairly low mileage engines will do best
with the Redline 10W- 40 or 10W-30 synthetic.

-Submitted by Lawrie Alexander